Last Updated on June 3, 2026 by ashley
Ever wondered how natural face creams manage to stay silky and uniform instead of separating into a greasy mess? The secret lies in emulsifiers: smart, amphiphilic molecules that keep oil and water bound in harmony. In natural skincare, the emulsifier you choose affects not only your cream’s texture but also the ethical and marketing claims you can make.
Synthetic emulsifiers aren’t necessarily harmful; they’re proven, efficient, and widely used. But more consumers now prefer clean, sustainable, plant-derived formulations. And this shift isn’t just consumer-driven; formulators are reevaluating ingredient sourcing, processing methods, and environmental impact.
This article is written for formulators who align with that mindset: makers who want both elegance and environmental responsibility in their emulsions.
In this guide, we’ll walk you through the top-performing natural emulsifiers for face creams, how they work, and how to pick one that fits your formula.
Choosing between O/W and W/O is the first decision; see our O/W vs W/O Emulsions guide.
What Exactly Is an Emulsifier (and Why It Matters)
An emulsifier is the go-between that brings oil and water together; two ingredients that otherwise refuse to stay mixed. These molecules have one end that loves water and one that loves oil. During emulsification (typically using heat and mixing), they position themselves between oil and water droplets and create a protective interface that keeps the two phases from separating.
Most face creams are oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions, where small droplets of oil are dispersed in a continuous water phase. These tend to feel light, breathable, and quick-absorbing. By contrast, water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions are thicker, richer, and better suited for barrier creams or balms.
Without a true emulsifier, your lotion may look fine for a few hours but it won’t stay that way.
Why Go Natural: The Rise of Plant-Based Emulsifiers
Natural emulsifiers are typically made from sugars, fatty acids, or plant oils. They are biodegradable, non-ethoxylated, and often certified by ECOCERT or COSMOS.
Using these ingredients allows you to formulate products that are not only effective but also environmentally and label-conscious. You get creams that look and feel professional, with the added value of being palm-free, PEG-free, and derived from renewable sources.
As of 2026, ingredient suppliers are innovating fast. There’s a growing range of natural emulsifier options tailored to every texture and viscosity; from featherlight lotions to ultra-rich night creams.
Top Natural Emulsifiers for Face Creams
The emulsifiers below are some of the most widely used in natural and organic skincare. Each offers distinct sensory and stability benefits. Always check supplier datasheets for specific guidance.
1. Olivem® 1000
INCI: Cetearyl Olivate (and) Sorbitan Olivate
Derived from olive fatty acids, this nonionic O/W emulsifier forms liquid crystal structures that mimic the skin barrier. Easy to work with. Ideal usage is 3–5%. It’s ECOCERT/COSMOS approved and works across a broad pH range (4.5–8).
2. Montanov™ 68
INCI: Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside
Made from sugar-derived glucose and fatty alcohols, Montanov™ 68 creates rich, lamellar O/W emulsions. Use at 1-5%. It’s ideal for medium-viscosity creams and pairs well with fatty alcohols.
3. Montanov™ 202
INCI: Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Arachidyl Glucoside
Palm-free (rapeseed-derived) and ultra-light, this O/W emulsifier gives a soft, invisible finish. Use at 1-3%. Ideal for minimalist formulas and tolerated by sensitive skin. Requires higher melting temperatures (~85°C).
4. Xyliance™
INCI: Cetearyl Wheat Straw Glycosides (and) Cetearyl Alcohol
A sugar-derived O/W emulsifier that gives bright, white emulsions with a smooth glide. PEG-free, biodegradable, and best used at 3–8%. Suitable for clean-label or sensitive skin products.
5. Ritamulse™ SCG (also known as Ecomulse)
INCI: Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate
A natural, anionic O/W emulsifier blend producing thick, conditioning creams. Known for its “powdery-soft” finish, Ritamulse™ is perfect for rich face creams and body lotions. Use 5–8%, at pH 5–7. ECOCERT approved.
6. Plantasens® Emulsifier CP5
INCI: Glyceryl Oleate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate (and) Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil Unsaponifiables
A 100% plant-based W/O emulsifier suitable for light creams and fluid emulsions. Performs well even in cold-process systems and gives an instant moisturizing, light feel. Use 3-5% for milky or serum-like textures.
7. Sucrose Stearate
INCI: Sucrose Stearate
A mild, PEG-free O/W emulsifier made from sucrose and vegetable fatty acids. Higher-HLBgrades (around 13-15) work as primary O/W emulsifiers, producing light, low-viscosity emulsionsand even cold-process textures. Stable at pH 4-8 (avoid going above 8, where it can saponify).Use at 1-5%. Excellent skin feel and mild enough for sensitive skin.
8. Glyceryl Stearate Citrate (Dermofeel® GSC)
INCI: Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
A robust, PEG-free anionic O/W emulsifier and “evergreen” of natural formulation. HLB around12, electrolyte-tolerant, and compatible with UV filters, which makes it a favourite for sun care.Use at 1.5-4% at pH 5-8, processed hot (~80°C). For a fully palm-free formula, specify the “POF”(palm-oil-free, rapeseed-derived) grade.
9. Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (Eumulgin® SG)
INCI: Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
An amino-acid-derived anionic O/W emulsifier that is exceptionally strong even at low use levels(0.25-2%). It builds lamellar gel structures that suit sensitive skin and pairs beautifully with fattyalcohols. Important: it is most effective at pH 6 or below, and should not be combined with highlevels of zinc oxide (anionic emulsifiers complex with zinc).
10. Lecithin
INCI: Lecithin
A natural phospholipid from soy or sunflower, with a low HLB (~4). Lecithin is best used as a co-emulsifier or secondary emulsifier rather than a standalone O/W system; it adds richness, water-binding, and a refatting feel. Use at 0.5-5%, added to the oil phase. For better oxidative stabilityand lamellar performance, choose Hydrogenated Lecithin (below).
11. Tego® Care 450
INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
A versatile, PEG-free nonionic O/W emulsifier (HLB ~12) prized for outstanding stability: it holdsup across pH 4.5-8.5, tolerates electrolytes and actives, and survives freeze/thaw cycles (-25°C to+50°C). Use at 2-3% with a 20-40% oil phase for creamy, high-viscosity creams without syntheticthickeners.
12. Hydrogenated Lecithin
INCI: Hydrogenated Lecithin
The hydrogenated (saturated) form of lecithin, far more oxidatively stable than standard lecithin.It is a genuine emulsifier that forms O/W emulsions with vegetable oils and carries a meaningfuloil load, and it is the key ingredient for building liposomes and skin-mimicking lamellarstructures, ideal for barrier-repair and ceramide creams. On its own it can give a thick, less elegant texture, so it performs best paired with a primary emulsifier and fatty alcohols. Use at 1-3%; it disperses with heat but also works in cold-process systems.
Note: The list above is not exhaustive. Every year, ingredient suppliers introduce new “green emulsifiers” designed to improve texture, stability, and sensory appeal, proof that natural formulation is evolving rapidly. While these classics remain industry staples, it’s worth exploring newer blends that combine eco-certification, versatility, and high performance.
| # | Emulsifier (INCI) | Type | HLB | Usage% | pH | Process | Palm-free? |
| 1 | Olivem 1000 (Cetearyl Olivate & Sorbitan Olivate) | O/W nonionic | 9 | 3-5% | 4.5-8 | Hot ~70°C | Yes (olive) |
| 2 | Montanov 68 (Cetearyl Alcohol & Cetearyl Glucoside) | O/W lamellar | Lamellar | 1-5% | wide | Hot ~70°C | Supplier-dependent |
| 3 | Montanov 202 (Arachidyl/Behenyl Alcohol & Arachidyl Glucoside) | O/W lamellar | Lamellar | 1-3% | wide | Hot ~85°C | Yes (rapeseed) |
| 4 | Xyliance (Cetearyl Wheat Straw Glycosides & Cetearyl Alcohol) | O/W nonionic | 8 | 3-8% | 4.5-6 | Hot ~70°C | No (since 2015) |
| 5 | Ritamulse SCG (Glyceryl Stearate,Cetearyl Alcohol,Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate) | O/W anionic | Anionic blend | 5-8% | 5-7 | Hot ~70°C | Supplier-dependent |
| 6 | Plantasens CP5 (Glyceryl Oleate &Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate & Olive Unsaponifiables) | W/O | ~3 | 3-5% | wide | Cold/warm | Likely yes |
| 7 | Sucrose Stearate | O/W nonionic | 13-15 | 1-5% | 4-8 | Hot (some grades cold) | Grade-dependent |
| 8 | Glyceryl Stearate Citrate (Dermofeel GSC) | O/W anionic | 12 | 1.5-4% | 5-8 | Hot ~80°C | Only “POF”grade |
| 9 | Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (Eumulgin SG) | O/W anionic | High (ionic) | 0.25-2% | ≤6 | Hot ~75°C | Grade-dependent |
| 10 | Lecithin | W/O co-emulsifier | 4 | 0.5-5% | tolerant | Oil phase | Yes (soy / sunflower) |
| 11 | Tego Care 450 (Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate) | O/W nonionic | 12 | 2-3% | 4.5-8.5 | Hot | Supplier-dependent |
| 12 | Hydrogenated Lecithin | O/W lamellar co-emulsifier | Lamellar (~4) | 1-3% | tolerant | Hot | Yes (soy / sunflower) |
Note: Whether a stearic-acid-based emulsifier (Sucrose Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate,Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Ritamulse, Tego Care 450) is palm-free depends on the supplierand grade, because roughly 95% of the world’s stearic acid is palm- or animal-derived. Anemulsifier is only palm-free if the supplier confirms a palm-free (e.g. rapeseed-derived)grade. Dermofeel GSC’s “POF” (Palm Oil Free) grade guarantees this.
How to Choose the Right Natural Emulsifier
Selecting the right emulsifier isn’t just about stability; it’s about texture, performance, and product philosophy. Each natural emulsifier behaves differently depending on oil phase percentage, viscosity goals, and pH. The table below summarizes the most relevant choices for face cream formulators.
If your emulsion keeps separating, our guide on why creams break and how to fix them walks through the fixes.
| Formulation Goal | Best-Suited Emulsifier Type / Example | Typical Usage Range & Parameters | Formulation Notes |
| Light, fast-absorbing day cream (low oil phase) | Nonionic O/W emulsifiers such as Olivem® 1000 or Montanov™ 202 | Use 3–5 % emulsifier. Works over a wide pH range. Heat both oil & water phases. | Great for normal-to-oily skin. Add 0.2 % xanthan gum for extra stability. Results in a silky, lotion-like texture. |
| Rich, nourishing face cream (high oil phase) | O/W emulsifiers with built-in thickeners such as Ritamulse™ SCG or Montanov™ 68 | Use 5–8 % emulsifier. Maintain pH in supplier recommended range. Combine with fatty alcohols if needed. | Produces creamy, cushiony texture with a soft, powdery after-feel. Ideal for dry or mature skin. |
| Minimalist or short INCI formulas | Simple, PEG-free nonionic systems such as Xyliance™ or Montanov™ 68 | Works well at 2–6 %. Compatible with plant oils and most botanical actives. | Ideal for “clean label” or sensitive-skin products. Creates smooth, white creams with low soaping. |
| Cold-process, milky W/O emulsion | W/O or hybrid systems like Plantasens® Emulsifier CP5 | Use min 3 %. Can be processed cold or warm. | Perfect for lightweight emulsions, lotion-serums, or body milks. Provides instant moisturization with minimal greasiness. |
Quick Checklist for Natural Emulsifier Selection
- Define your emulsion type. Most face creams are oil-in-water (O/W) for a light, breathable finish.
- Set your texture goal. Choose lower usage rates for lotions (3–5 %) and higher rates (5–8 %) for dense creams.
- Check pH compatibility. For instance, Ritamulse™ SCG performs best at pH 5–7, while Olivem® 1000 tolerates a much broader range.
- Use supportive stabilizers. Add co-emulsifiers like cetyl or cetearyl alcohol and a small amount of xanthan gum to reinforce stability.
- Test your formula. Run heat/cool cycles and centrifuge tests to ensure phase stability before scaling production.
By matching emulsifier properties with your formulation goals, you can achieve the perfect balance between natural integrity and professional performance.
Formulation Tips for Natural Emulsifiers
Working with natural emulsifiers feels different from conventional systems. They’re more sensitive to temperature, shear, and phase ratios. But when treated right, they reward you with beautifully stable, skin-friendly creams. Here’s how to get the most out of them:
1. Heat Both Phases Properly
Most natural emulsifiers like Olivem® 1000, Montanov™ 68, and Ritamulse™ SCG require both oil and water phases to reach around 70–75 °C before combining. This ensures full melting of the emulsifier and a proper molecular arrangement for stability.
2. Check phase addition
Some emulsifiers require oil-to-water addition (or vice versa). Follow supplier guidance.
3. Homogenize, Then Stir While Cooling
Immediately after combining, use a high-shear mixer or mini homogenizer for 1–2 minutes to disperse droplets evenly. Continue gentle stirring while the emulsion cools; this helps liquid-crystal structures form properly and prevents phase separation.
4. Control the pH Early
After emulsification and cooling to ~40 °C, check and adjust your pH.
- Ritamulse™ SCG prefers pH 5–7.
- Olivem® 1000 and Montanov™ series tolerate wider ranges.
Stable pH helps preserve both actives and emulsifier performance.
5. Reinforce with Co-Emulsifiers or Thickeners
Natural systems often benefit from small stabilizers such as:
- Cetyl or Cetearyl Alcohol (1–3 %) for viscosity and structure.
- Glyceryl Stearate (1–2 %) for creaminess.
- Xanthan Gum (~0.2 %) for water-phase stabilization.
6. Respect Phase Ratios
Most natural O/W emulsifiers perform best when the oil phase is 15–25 % of the total formula. Below that range, you risk instability; above it, you’ll need stronger co-stabilizers or secondary emulsifiers.
7. Test for Stability Before Scaling Up
Even if the texture looks perfect on day 1, run:
- Freeze–thaw or heat–cool cycles (−5 °C to 45 °C).
- Centrifuge testing for early signs of separation.
Natural emulsions can evolve over several days as crystalline structures fully form, so allow at least one week of observation before judging final stability.
These small process details make a massive difference between a separated, grainy cream and a luxurious, professionally stable natural emulsion.
Conclusion: From Natural Ingredients to Professional Results
Natural emulsifiers have transformed how we approach skincare formulation. They prove that “green” doesn’t have to mean unstable or underperforming. With the right balance of science and process, plant-based emulsifiers can deliver luxury textures, stability, and skin affinity that rival conventional systems, without compromising sustainability values.
Whether you’re a DIY formulator or building an indie skincare brand, understanding how these emulsifiers work gives you control over your product’s structure, stability, and story. Each ingredient choice reflects your philosophy as a creator—science-driven, transparent, and mindful of both skin and environment.
So, if you’re ready to take your formulation skills to the next level, go beyond just following recipes.
Learn how to design your own emulsifier system in our blog post Face Cream Formulation Guide: a step-by-step resource that teaches you how to select, pair, and balance natural emulsifiers for every texture goal.
Explore the chapters “Emulsifiers 101: Pick, Pair, Proportion” and “Choosing the Right System” to master the foundations of modern emulsion science and start creating creams that truly stand out.
If you’re ready to turn your new knowledge into real formulations, explore our complete Emulsion Formulation Guide: your step-by-step manual for building stable, professional-grade natural creams from scratch.
Emulsion Face Cream Formulation Guide
Learn to formulate high-performance face creams without guesswork. Master emulsifiers, thickeners, actives, pH, and stability like a real cosmetic formulator.
This 340-page science-backed guide gives you 10 complete professional formulas (anti-aging with bakuchiol, retinol night cream, niacinamide cream, ceramide barrier cream, W/O healing balm, eye cream, and more) plus 9 starter recipe templates.
O/W and W/O systems covered. Written by a Chemical Engineer. Beginner-friendly, deeply detailed, lifetime access.
