A 250+ page reference handbook covering 55 cosmetic actives, from Allantoin to Zinc PCA, with the pH, solubility, stability and concentration data you actually need to make them work in your formulas.
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✓ Written by a Chemical Engineer · M.Sc.
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You added niacinamide and your formula went cloudy.
You used vitamin C and within a week it turned brown.
You followed a “recipe” with retinol and it irritated everyone who tried it.
These aren’t bad luck. They’re predictable formulation failures; the kind
that happen when actives are chosen by trend instead of by chemistry.
Every active has a window: a pH range, a solubility limit, a concentration
ceiling, a compatibility profile. Step outside that window and the active
either does nothing, breaks the formula, or hurts the skin.
This handbook gives you that window for 55 of the most-used cosmetic
actives. Written the way a working formulator actually thinks.
Tired of trial-and-error and wasted raw materials.
Building stable, professional, market-ready products.
Looking for a working reference, not just textbook theory.
Who’s ever asked: “is this active actually worth adding?”
The Cosmetic Actives Handbook is built in two parts. Section one teaches you how to think about actives. Section two gives you the data for 55 of them.
Six core principles every formulator must apply BEFORE adding any active to a formula:
Each active follows the same structure, so you can compare them side by side:
From everyday humectants to the most advanced peptides… every active you’re likely to formulate with, explained the way a chemical engineer would explain it.
Allantoin
Aloe Vera
Alpha-Arbutin
Argireline
Astaxanthin
Azelaic Acid
Bakuchiol
Beta-Glucan
Betaine
Benzoyl Peroxide
Bisabolol
Caffeine
Ceramides
Centella Asiatica
Chamomile Extract
Coenzyme Q10
Collagen
Copper Peptides
EGF
Ferulic Acid
Ginseng Extract
Glycerin
Glycolic Acid
Green Tea Extract
Hyaluronic Acid
Hydroquinone
Inulin
Hydrolyzed Keratin
Kojic Acid
Lactic Acid
Lactobionic Acid
Licorice Root
Malic Acid
Mandelic Acid
Matrixyl
Niacinamide
Colloidal Oatmeal
Panthenol
Piroctone Olamine
Propolis Extract
Resveratrol
Retinoids
Salicylic Acid
Saw Palmetto
Snail Mucin
Squalane
Sulfur
Tranexamic Acid
Turmeric (Curcumin)
Urea
Vitamin C
Vitamin E
Vitamin K
Zinc Oxide
Zinc PCA
✗ Not a recipe book.
✗ Not a “cosmetic actives cheat sheet.”
✗ Not an ingredient encyclopedia copied from supplier datasheets.
✓ A decision tool. Built around the question every working formulator asks before adding an active:
That shift is what separates beginners from real formulators.
This handbook is the shift.
I’m Ashley, a Chemical Engineer (M.Sc.), formulator, and the person behind SwonLab.
I wrote this handbook because I kept seeing the same pattern: smart, motivated DIY formulators wasting expensive raw materials on actives they didn’t fully understand. Not because they weren’t trying, but because the information out there is either oversimplified marketing (“niacinamide does everything!”) or buried in technical papers no one has time to translate.
So I translated it. 55 actives, the same structure for each one, written from a formulator’s perspective. The way I wish someone had explained it to me when I started.
— Ashley
SwonLab · Founder & Formulator
The handbook launches Wednesday, May 6, 2026.
Join the waitlist now and you’ll get the launch code by email that morning. The code stays valid for 48 hours, then the book returns to full price for everyone else.
Already on the SwonLab Glow List? You’ll still need to join the waitlist to receive the launch code.
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